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| A Trip 'Down South' |
If you’ve visited Corfu often, you're sure to have ‘done’ all the usual
sights, bathed at all the popular beaches. So perhaps now is the time to
branch out and visit some locations which may not immediately spring to mind
when you want inspiration for your day-out destination. We recommend a trip
‘down south’, to Agios Mattheos and its environs.
Start out early, planning to breakfast on your arrival. From points north,
the inland route which skirts Mount Agii Deka makes a good start to the day.
Take the main road southwards, then go straight on at Vrioni, following
signs for the Achillion Palace. Bear right at the first major junction, half
a kilometre further, at Milia, the road divides.
But first, you might like to stop at Loula’s ceramic workshop, housed in a
large old red-painted building featuring three floors of arcades - an
unmistakable landmark. If you’re already peckish, there’s a bakery next
door. Continuing, take the left fork, which winds, with spectacular views
eastward, to Agii Deka Village. Three or four kilometres after the village,
the road crosses a pass and the view opens to the west, with the great
valley of the Messongi River spread out below. Eventually, you hit the main
south highway just before the Ano Messongi Bridge - a bailey-type structure
crossing the river where the border of Corfu’s deep south begins. About 100
metres after the bridge, next to a petrol station, take a rather indistinct
road to the right, which soon doubles back in a north-westerly direction
towards your first destination - Agios Mattheos.
A couple of kilometres after your turn at the petrol station, on a long
straight section of road, look carefully on your right for the Monument
dedicated to the Fighters of the Drina Division of the Serbian Army. Now
shaded by evergreens, the Monument was the first on Corfu to commemorate the
Serbian victims of the Long March of 1915-16, being built by survivors in
memory of comrades who had lost their lives.
Like several places in Corfu, Agios Mattheos has strong associations with
Serbia. In October 1915, offensives by German, Austro-Hungarian and
Bulgarian armies forced the Serbs to retreat across the mountains towards
the Adriatic. Arriving on the coast debilitated by hunger and disease, the
soldiers, accompanied by the Serbian Royal Family and government, were
evacuated to Corfu. On 18 January 1916, the first of 150,000 troops arrived
at Govino Bay, now the Gouvia Marina. The Drina Regiment was subsequently
stationed at Agios Mattheos and in nearby Vranganiotika. Too weak to
survive, many died, and were buried in a military cemetery in a field
belonging to a local farmer, Yiannis Yiannoulis (whom we shall hear more
of). The monument marks its site.
The following verses, written by Lieutenant Vladimir Stanimirovic, are
engraved (in Serbian) on the monument:
The Serbian flowers will not grow
On the burial mounds abroad,
Send word to our children
That we shall never return.
Say goodbye to the motherland,
Kiss the Serbian soil!
Let these mounds be
The remembrance to fighting for freedom.
Continue by following the road straight on to Agios Mattheos. The village is
particularly renowned for its main street, bordered by coffee bars and
shops, and this is your first refreshment stop. Drive right through the
village (more a small town), and after the bars, you will find parking at
the side of the street. Take care not to block traffic.
Enjoy your coffee, and perhaps a breakfast pie, in the open air on the
‘strip’, where the spectacle of traffic snarl-ups, usually caused by an
oversized tractor trying to outface a delivery van, provides an endless
source of amusement.
Well, here you are in one of Corfu’s largest and most traditional villages.
So don’t you think you should take the opportunity to explore?
The layout of the village is very simple, and guarantees you won't get lost.
Its framework consists of three streets - the main through road, and two
parallel lanes, one above and one below. In addition, a periphery road
skirts the upper border of the settlement. The upper village is the more
picturesque. To reach the Upper Parallel Lane, you ascend the wide paved
road beside the cake/pie shop at the northern end of the ‘strip’. Reaching
the lane, you can turn right or left. Right takes you to the main church,
set in an extensive square with a glorious view. In the corner, a bronze
bust on a plinth, represents Yiannis Yiannoulis, the farmer on whose land
the Cemetery Monument was erected. Yiannoulis gained the respect of the
Serbians by refusing to cultivate the field where the dead soldiers were
buried. The statue was erected in 1989.
Stroll back along the lane, taking detours up side alleys to the right.
Don’t worry, you won’t get lost - you will either hit the top periphery
road, or find yourself back on the lane. Do beware of locals, who will
assume you want to get to the monastery (‘monastiri’), and will direct you
towards the mountain summit!
The lane eventually drops to the main village road - here turn right, then
take any lane down to the left, which link with the Lower Parallel Lane.
This part of the village is the more rural, and the houses are interspersed
with lush gardens. Pass a little spring and you soon reach a cross lane.
Left, this leads you up to the main village road at the cake shop,
completing your circuit of this characterful settlement.
In your car now, head back southwards through the village (the way you came
if you took the recommended route). Just as the gently winding descent
levels out onto the plain, there’s an overhead road sign that looks as if
it’s been lifted from the M25 (you can’t have failed to notice it on your
way in) indicating the way to Halikounas and other beaches in the vicinity.
This is your way. Stop at the first road junction, about a kilometre on from
the ‘M25’ turn.
Here, the Fortress of Gardiki stands on the corner. It was probably built
during the 13th century by Michael, the Despot of Epirus, as part of a ring
of fortifications around the island, of which only this one and Angelokastro
remain intact. It is shaped as an octagonal ellipse, and has eight decorated
towers which incorporate materials from more ancient structures. You can
enter it by way of a barbican gate.
To continue, go straight on at the Gardiki junction (not left to Halikouna).
Another kilometre further, look out on your right for a large sign which
indicates the way to the Gardiki Cave. The board gives information about the
cave, which was inhabited about 20,000 BC by Paleolithic Man, at a time when
sea levels were lower and Corfu was part of the continent. Park on the
verge, then follow arrows up a clear footpath to the cave - it’s just a few
minutes.
You can walk right through the cave, and imagine what it would be like to be
one of the hunter-gatherers that lived there, they must have slept on the
platforms that hug the right-hand wall.
Your last visit before I’ll let you go for lunch is another hundred metres
along the road-you can leave your car and walk. On the left, a sign points
the way to the ‘Serbian Fountain’, where one of the main springs which run
from the side of Mount Agios Mattheos (no doubt the proximity of the springs
dictated Gardiki Man’s choice of cave residence) has been ducted to a stone
and brick spring-head, not now functioning. It was built by soldiers of the
Drina regiment, in thanks for the hospitality of the local people.
Lunch awaits at Alonaki Taverna. To get there, you can either return to the
road junction at the Gardiki Fortress, and turn left. From here, follow
signs for the taverna.
(A tip - if you are interested in gardening, several large plant-cultivation
businesses border this road. These supply the commercial garden centres near
Town, so prices are lower than elsewhere).
Alternatively, you can continue along the road past the Serbian Fountain,
taking the first track left, signed ‘Kanouli’. The road is unmade, with
stones and lots of dust, but perfectly safe and passable. Follow the main
track - not to Kanouli - and soon it doubles back southwards. As soon as you
hit asphalt, take a right, soon reaching Alonaki Taverna.
Alonaki is a ‘Greek’ taverna, undiscovered by mass tourism and frequented
mostly by the locals. It’s located on the edge of a sandy cliff, looking
straight out to sea and down to a picturesque miniature harbour. Tables are
distributed in a forest of shrub-oaks and other low trees, planted
originally as a windbreak for the strong westerlies. The forest has been
cleared in patches to form little path-linked natural ‘rooms’, some with
only a single table. The house dogs and an odd chicken roam. There is no
menu, and owner Michalis will tell you what’s available. Everything’s good,
made mostly with home-produced and seasonal ingredients, but I must
recommend the tomato keftedes, the green beans in sauce and the minute fried
shrimp. And the superlative chips.
Afternoon is for the beach, and on these ones you won’t find any pouncing
sunbed sentinels after your cash. Alonaki Beach, at the foot of the cliff,
is accessed from a track beside the taverna. But if you are more
adventurous, head for Korission Lake - turn right out of the taverna car
Old house for sale in Agios Mattheos - The Sanctuary costs 89,900 euros
fully finished
The Paleolithic Cave at Gardiki |
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